400 Years of History Unveiled: Discovering the Vibrant Past of Port-Royal

400 Years of History Unveiled: Discovering the Vibrant Past of Port-Royal

Embarking on a journey through time, I found myself immersed in the captivating tales of Port-Royal, an enchanting settlement rich with historical significance. Situated about 10 kilometers from the charming town of Annapolis Royal, this North American gem holds the distinction of being one of the earliest successful European settlements in North America. Founded in 1605 by Sieur de Mons and Samuel de Champlain, Port-Royal, also known as a "Habitation," was a thriving French settlement until its tragic demise in 1613, when it was engulfed in flames by the notorious Captain Samuel Argall of Virginia.

Guiding me through the depths of early French life in Canada was Wayne Melanson, an expert steeped in the heritage of Port-Royal. As a ninth-generation Acadian and twin brother to Alan Melanson, whom I had previously encountered during my explorations in Annapolis Royal, Wayne's connection to the area's history ran deep. It was during my journey to Port-Royal that I noticed a sign bearing the name "Melanson Settlement," a National Historic Site of Canada, commemorating the ancestors of the Melanson family. Meeting Alan and Wayne Melanson, I realized I had stumbled upon living history, eager to delve deeper into their remarkable story.

In the year 1664, Charles Melanson, progenitor of the present-day Melanson family, ventured to the banks of the Annapolis River alongside his wife, Marie Dugas. They established the Melanson Settlement along the river's northern shores, a thriving agricultural community known for employing unique Acadian dykeland farming techniques. However, in 1755, the Melanson family, including Charles' son Ambroise, fell victim to the tragic events of the Great Expulsion ("le grand dérangement") when the English, assuming control of the area, deported them from Annapolis. Nevertheless, Wayne shared a tale of bravery as six men, led by Ambroise's son-in-law Pierre Belliveau, staged a mutiny aboard the ship, overpowering the crew. Pierre's son, Amand, later returned to settle in Nova Scotia's Clare region.

Remarkably, some of Charles Melanson's descendants still reside in close proximity to the original homestead, tracing their roots back to the 17th century. Wayne emphasized the resilience and determination of these individuals, who managed to endure and preserve their cultural identity despite the hardships of the past. It was awe-inspiring to witness the presence of two ninth-generation Acadian twin brothers, Alan and Wayne, living and working adjacent to their ancestors' original settlement, both dedicated to breathing life into the area's history for visitors.

Wayne, a presentation supervisor with Parks Canada, the federal agency responsible for preserving many of Canada's significant heritage sites, embodied the style of dress worn by early French settlers. Clad in a simple shirt and pants, he donned a heavy woolen cape to ward off the biting cold. Completing his attire were traditional wooden clogs, popular footwear of the time.

Passing through the wooden gate, adorned with the coat of arms of Henri IV, King of France in 1605, and the coats of arms of the two governors, Sieur de Mons and Sieur de Poutrincourt, we entered the Port-Royal Habitation. This meticulously reconstructed complex, comprising six interconnected wooden buildings surrounding a central courtyard, accurately replicates the original habitation. The project owes its existence to the dedicated efforts of Harriet Taber Richardson, a resident of Cambridge, Massachusetts, who raised funds to bring a Harvard-educated archaeologist on board for the authentic reconstruction of this early French settlement.

The Port-Royal Habitation stands as a magnificent testament to the lifestyle and challenges faced by the early French settlers and fur traders in eastern Canada. Wayne unveiled the intricacies of the original settlement, housing approximately 30 craftsmen and 15 gentlemen, including a surgeon, lawyer, and ship's pilot. Notably, no women resided in Port-Royal at the time.

Our journey commenced at the forge, where the settlement's essential metal goods were crafted. The blacksmith played a vital role in the community, producing the necessary hardware for maintaining the habitation. Additionally, he created goods for trade with the Mi'kmaq First Nations People, contributing to the settlement's financial well-being.

Next to the forge stood the kitchen, where tantalizing dishes featuring geese, rabbits, and other delicacies were prepared, alongside freshly baked bread. Adorned in 17th-century fashion, the adjacent Common Room showcased pewter tableware, providing the backdrop for frequent dinners shared by French settlers and the Mi'kmaq natives. The "Order of Good Cheer," heralded as the first European social club, sought to ward off the darkness of winter nights. Prominent members of the colony took turns hosting grand feasts, arranging entertainment, and preparing unique delicacies like fricasseed beaver tail and boiled moose nose.

Despite the harsh conditions, culture thrived within the settlement of Port-Royal. Marc Lescarbot, a Parisian lawyer who spent the winter of 1606-1607 at the habitation, penned a play titled "The Theatre of Neptune," which premiered in November 1606. Lescarbot's chronicles offer invaluable insights into the daily trials faced by early French settlers.

Ascending to the second-story dormitory, once housing around 30 craftsmen specializing in joinery, carpentry, masonry, stonecutting, locksmithing, and ironworking, we glimpsed their living quarters. These individuals were obliged to devote three hours a day to their respective trades, leaving them ample time for fishing, hunting, and tending to their gardens. Demonstrating the marvels of the era, Wayne showcased a foot-powered spring pole lathe, an astonishing piece of human-powered equipment capable of turning wood into objects such as spindles, goblets, and candlesticks.

Adjacent to the dormitory, the apothecary labored to ensure the settlers' well-being. Crushing various herbs with a pestle and mortar, the apothecary concocted remedies for common ailments. Sadly, many original inhabitants succumbed to the harsh winters of this unforgiving environment.

Several gentlemen's quarters followed, furnished with bunk beds and draw curtains for privacy. Typically accommodating two to four gentlemen, each room boasted a table, chair, wardrobe, large bench, and fireplace. The Governor's sleeping quarters, adorned with a smoked moose hide, featured artwork crafted by the Mi'kmaq natives, which greatly enchanted the French settlers. Wayne revealed that wearing moose hide, with the hairy side facing inwards and the smooth side outwards, provided optimal protection against the cold.

Moving on, we reached the fur storage area, where an array of furs awaited our gaze—beaver, silver fox, bobcat, raccoon, timber wolf, otter, and lynx. Wayne enlightened me about the exceptional value of beaver fur, driven by Europe's insatiable demand for beaver fur hats in royal courts. Indeed, the entire early settlement of Canada thrived due to this fashion frenzy. Rabbit fur, too, was employed in hat-making, but the process of removing keratin from the hair required the use of mercury, causing severe mental health issues among the craftsmen responsible. This historical fact sheds light on the origin of the phrase "mad as a hatter."

Stepping into the wine cellar, I discovered that each resident of Port-Royal received 1.5 pints (approximately 1 liter) of wine per day. With water sources often contaminated due to poor sanitation, wine was considered a healthier alternative. The townspeople would discard their waste into the rivers, inadvertently polluting their own drinking water supply.

Adjacent to the cellar, we entered the trading room, where barter transactions for essential goods occurred. Upstairs, a loft showcased a Mi'kmaq canoe and an original coffin. The steep roof served the practical purpose of allowing snow to slide off during the harsh winter months. Wayne then guided me to the Cannon Platform, which provided a breathtaking view of the Annapolis River. This strategic location enabled the early settlers to spot any potential intruders approaching the area.

Outside the Habitation, a monument stood in honor of Membertou, one of the great Mi'kmaq chiefs who assisted the French in adapting and surviving in Acadia. Membertou and his family were baptized in 1610. Grateful for Wayne Melanson's illuminating introduction to Port-Royal's rich history, I embarked on my return journey to Annapolis Royal, capturing the beauty of Granville Ferry's charming houses along the way. Once serving as a ferry connection between the towns, Granville Ferry holds its own place in history.

As the day drew to a close, my appetite was awakened, and I eagerly anticipated the Garrison Graveyard Tour. Alan Melanson, the other half of this dynamic duo of historical experts, would be leading the tour, breathing life into the stories of the past.